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Drone crash when battery went from 21% to 0% in 10 seconds...

Oz Doc

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Hi team:

So I did a short flight yesterday with my Nano plus (10month old). Taking off with a battery showing 61%. All is well until RTH is trigger when the battery is down to 24% after 5 minutes of flying. So I immediately started to fly back in a straight line. The battery was down to 21% when all of a sudden it dropped to 0% and my drone crashed (see screenshot attached). Luckily it crashed on a grass area but now the drone legs x 2 are partially broken. The flying condition was calm, temp is 28degree C. I pulled the log and there was no warning about the battery. The battery is used less than 25 times!

This incident completely destroyed my confidence in flying this drone....

My questions:

1) does anyone have this issues before?
2) will Autel repair the damage + replace the battery (assume it was faulty)?

Thanks guys

Oz
 

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I took mine out after a month or 2 of being set aside and didnt bother to charge the batteries as they indicated 3 of 4 lights so one would think they were ~70%. I was flying nearby and noticed the drone was losing 1% battery every 5 seconds or so. I should have charged the batteries to full before flying... and is mandatory when they have been sitting for awhile as the state of charge indicator seems to need resetting.

Did you fully charge the batteries before your flight?
 
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No I didn't fully charge it as it was only a very short flight.

My crash would've been avoided
1) the charge indicator NOT showing 64% when it powered on. Instead it should've shown 30% or less (my total flight time is only 8 minutes). I would've not flown it at all.
2) the drone should've been able to detect there is an issue with the battery seeing it's draining much faster than usual and sent an warning to land immediately. Instead it operates as normal and resulted in sudden power loss and crash!

Imagine Tesla operates in the same fashion. Immediately after power on, it gives you a false charge indication of 60-70% when it's only 30% at best. After driving it for a short period of time, it didn't detect there is a problem with the battery as it is draining way too fast and it sends no warning to its driver. It continues to calculate your RTH erroneously. The driver proceed to RTH when the car gives the indcation but then the car runs out of juice 50km from home. Is that driver's fault this happens?
 
I took mine out after a month or 2 of being set aside and didnt bother to charge the batteries as they indicated 3 of 4 lights so one would think they were ~70%. I was flying nearby and noticed the drone was losing 1% battery every 5 seconds or so. I should have charged the batteries to full before flying... and is mandatory when they have been sitting for awhile as the state of charge indicator seems to need resetting.

Did you fully charge the batteries before your flight?
Same experience here.
Also strange they show 70% after 60 days since they should have discharge to below 50%.
Perhaps they do but it doesn't reflect immediately in the battery stats.
 
Same experience here.
Also strange they show 70% after 60 days since they should have discharge to below 50%.
Perhaps they do but it doesn't reflect immediately in the battery stats.
So what happened to your drone then? Did it crash?
 
There's a guy on YouTube known as 808-State who has been flying his E2P for years but has noticed his batteries do wear out quicker than they should and when he sees them acting up like this he does replace them. At over $200 a pop this gets spendy quick.

It should also be noted that he states he runs his batteries down pretty low routinely like down below 10%. Whether he recharges them as soon as he can is unknown.

Lithium batteries don't like being fully discharged and they do like being in a 50% charged state. I've seen people state they don't routinely let their drone batteries get below 25% and they charge them as soon as they get home then let them discharge to 50-60% on their own. By doing this they get over 100 cycles out of them.

I guess it depends on what the user does and if he gets paid for flying so he can roll the cost of new batteries into his budget when routinely discharging below 20-25%.
 
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There's a guy on YouTube known as 808-State who has been flying his E2P for years but has noticed his batteries do wear out quicker than they should and when he sees them acting up like this he does replace them. At over $200 a pop this gets spendy quick.

It should also be noted that he states he runs his batteries down pretty low routinely like down below 10%. Whether he recharges them as soon as he can is unknown.

Lithium batteries don't like being fully discharged and they do like being in a 50% charged state. I've seen people state they don't routinely let their drone batteries get below 25% and they charge them as soon as they get home then let them discharge to 50-60% on their own. By doing this they get over 100 cycles out of them.

I guess it depends on what the user does and if he gets paid for flying so he can roll the cost of new batteries into his budget when routinely discharging below 20-25%.

The battery has less than 25 cycles on it. I can understand the normal tear and wear of a lithium battery and expect them to give shorter and shorter flight time as they age. What I do not understand is how can Autel design a system that gives complete false indication of the battery charge? This is a flying drone!! Imagine Boeing designed a fuel minotring system that can go from 21% left to 0% in few seconds.
 
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The battery has less than 25 cycles on it. I can understand the normal tear and wear of a lithium battery and expect them to give shorter and shorter flight time as they age. What I do not understand is how can Autel design a system that gives complete false indication of the battery charge? This is a flying drone!! Imagine Boeing designed a fuel minotring system that can go from 21% left to 0% in few seconds.
Oh, I hear ya, and some kind of warning system should be built into the system. One wonders why this hasn't been done. Perhaps there's a good reason. If so I'd like to hear it.
 
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It is mostly the battery management and SOC IC's (mostly texas instruments chips) that are embedded in the protection system. I have had many DJI batteries show me 3/4 full after siting for a few months but drop to <25 as soon as I put it on the charger or add a load. SOC mapping is a tricky business but for now best practice should be to charge fully before flight, especially if they have been in storage for a few weeks or more.
 
Hi team:

So I did a short flight yesterday with my Nano plus (10month old). Taking off with a battery showing 61%. All is well until RTH is trigger when the battery is down to 24% after 5 minutes of flying. So I immediately started to fly back in a straight line. The battery was down to 21% when all of a sudden it dropped to 0% and my drone crashed (see screenshot attached). Luckily it crashed on a grass area but now the drone legs x 2 are partially broken. The flying condition was calm, temp is 28degree C. I pulled the log and there was no warning about the battery. The battery is used less than 25 times!

This incident completely destroyed my confidence in flying this drone....

My questions:

1) does anyone have this issues before?
2) will Autel repair the damage + replace the battery (assume it was faulty)?

Thanks guys

Oz

Never trust the battery charge indicator if they have been sitting discharged for awhile or even a few days. What happens is the cells discharge unevenly which means that the charge indicator is not accurate as the batteries start discharging.

I don't know how many cells the Nano has but the EVO II uses a 3C (3 Cell battery), the charge remaining indicator has no way to show if for example Cell 2 is is not outputting its proper voltage/current which would put it out of balance with the other cells. What happens then is during the flight, the other two cells have to make up for the low cell; causing them to discharge far quicker than the drone can detect since the drone's battery algorithms are based on a normal healthy battery; once the total output from the battery drops below a certain voltage/current threshold the drone falls out of the sky.

This is also why it is important to not remove the batteries from the charger until all of the lights stop flashing. With a multi-cell LiPo battery, the charger first charges all of the batteries then there is something called a balancing cycle which is where the balancing circuitry in the battery or in the charger balances all of the cells to ensure they are all within a few mV of each other. If you take the battery off of the charger before the balancing cycle is completed, you could have a premature failure in the air. If you watch the charging process closely, the last light on the battery seems to take forever to stop flashing; that's because it is also performing a balancing cycle.

I used to fly RC helicopters and back then you had to program in the cell count, cell capacity, and even the balancing cycle. You can read more about the process here. Those same principals apply to all multi-cell LiPo batteries, but these days the complexities are hidden behind nicer battery compartments and simpler chargers, but all of that pretty window dressing means you have less insight into the actual health of the battery.

It is simply not safe to take a multi-cell LiPo battery that has been sitting (especially one like drone batteries which have a discharge cycle) and go fly with it. You should always fully charge it first even if the battery says it is still at 100%. At a minimum, the charger will perform a balancing cycle. What is safe is to take off and land with less than a 100% full battery throughout the day, I do this all the time with no problem. The batteries start becoming unbalanced over time, especially when the discharge cycle kicks in, it won't become unbalanced in just a few hours or you have other problems.

This did happen to me recently and I almost lost my drone, I put all of the batteries on the charger a few days after fully charging them, got out to the project site and one of the batteries dropped from 100% to 20% within a few minutes of being airborne, fortunately I had enough capacity remaining to safely land. What had happened was when I put the battery on the charger it did not seat properly so it actually did not charge. It still looked like it was at 100% to the software, but it was unbalanced. This was after only 4 or 5 days of sitting so that is a good example of how quickly they can become unbalanced.
 
personally i never wait for rth to kick in when the battery is low. it's a calculation with too many variables that i don't trust. unless the drone is right nearby, i'll bring it in at 25%. but i guess that only works if you start out at 100%.
 
Post below is from Ken Booth on the Autel Facebook Page, September 27 2021, it is a good read.

Excellent Read.. If you ever want to know more about Li-ion or Li-Po battery protection circuits and state of charge determination algorithms, most of the common IC's used for this have detailed datasheets.

Summary of Ken's post;
- Preheat packs if working in cold conditions, cold packs will cause operational instability in the battery protection systems.
- self-discharge safety systems are overly cautions to prevent incident and can interfere with the state-of-charge (SOC) algorithms
- Never fly on a partially charged pack unless it was cycled the same day.
- Never fly on a pack that has undergone self discharge unless it was cycled the same day.
- Never keep a pack fully charged for more than 1 or 2 days max to optimize battery lifespan (this is like storing rubber bands in your desk stretched out)
- Do not routinely discharge a pack below 20% to optimize battery lifespan

-----------------------------------

Ken Booth Admin
4xpYDl8Bbdc.png
·​

September 27, 2021 ·​


It’s that time of year again!!
Posted Earlier but good information for new users or even seasoned users that don’t fully understand these type of packs. I was requested to provide a little more information how cold and or heat can affect li-po batteries. First please look at the attached image, this should really explain all you need to know on how cold effects capacity. Once you understand this, most of the other pieces come together.

Now that we understand what cold does to capacity let us talk about overall discharge. Most of us know that C is based on overall capacity, so if your capacity goes down, so will your C rating. Unfortunately, Autel, DJI and others does not use batteries that have much overhead, this is mostly due to keep the weight down at a certain price point. So, when we start to pull from this cold battery a few things can happen. If the pack has not been preheated, it will start to preheat itself. You are probably asking; well if that’s the case, why do I have to worry about preheating? Well, if the battery is too cold and C rating has been affected, it will not be able to supply enough output (required C), going over its current C rating due to loss of capacity. This starts heating the pack up rapidly. Which in turn makes the pack quickly go past normal operating temperatures, which will also decrease output. This will cause immediate damage and more than likely a cell failure under extreme conditions. This is called thermal runaway.

The next thing that can happen is part of the smart logic and safety features of these packs. Since the cold does affect overall capacity, this could kick the overcharge protection in and start a self-discharge of the pack(s). In theory this is good and prevents possible damage or even a fire but can also play with the SOC (state of charge) that calculates the current charge state. While the logic is pretty darn good its not perfect. The percentage could be off as much as 20-30%. The same goes for an automatic timed self-discharge, you NEVER want to fly a pack that has been allowed to self-discharge. I would also highly advise to never fly ANY partially discharged pack unless that pack has been used that same day.
So, what can we do to help or minimize these issues?

Preheat packs in cooler weather. I would say anything below 55F you should start paying attention. One easy way to keep packs nice and warm in colder weather is dry rice and an ice chest / bag. Take a few pounds of dry rice (this depends on how big of a cooler you have) and place the rice in a large zip-lock bag(s). Microwave the rice for about 5-10mins or until very hot. Place the rice in the cooler. This should keep packs warm for most of the day. I prefer this method since the rice is reusable and does help with small amounts of moisture as well.

DO NOT Keep full pack charged for more than 24, 48 hours MAX! Any type of lipo does not like to be kept fully charge for a long period. This is not just for smart packs, any lipo will degrade over time if kept in a full charge state. Signs of this can be shorter flight times and possibly puffing (gassing) in extreme cases.
DO NOT over discharge your packs. Anything past 20%, consider it a reserve. If you commonly go past this 20% mark you will shorten you packs life. This is extremely important during extreme temps, both hot and cold weather.
DO NOT expect the same performance. In cold weather, even after preheating. Some craft keep packs warmer than others. Be easy on the packs, especially at the start of the flight, even after preheating.

Stop and hover. This is important for ANY time of year and should be included in you SOP. When you first take off, stop and hover for at least a minute. Even prior to a mapping run, take off and hover for a minute before the start of a mission. It is worth that 1 or 2mins less of mission time. Check all controls and watch the behavior of the craft. If you start to see drifting or any odd behavior, that is your clue to land and diagnose the issues. You would be surprised at how many logs of failures I have seen and the first thing the operator does is a punch out. This is probably the worst thing you can do with these types of craft. When these craft are not well, they usually show signs at the begging of flight. I simple hover with some minor control inputs can do wonders at showing a healthy or sick craft. This also allows the internals of the craft and packs to start warming up properly.
Check voltages and balances in the app and not percentages. Always have voltage options turned on. This is something to check when you are doing the hover and control test at the start of flight. Open the battery menu and check each cell, make sure everything looks good. Make sure you do not see any cells dropping rapidly and or voltage issues.
Voltages. A freshly charged pack should be around 4.2-4.3v per cell. A clue to a bad SOC is a percentage showing 99-100% but a much lower voltage. Once again, during that initial hover period check the cell voltages or overall voltage. If you see something like 3.9v at 99-100% charge, that pack either has a SOC issue or the pack is not healthy. If you do see any anomalies, do not risk it! Land and swap the packs.

Maintenance. With smart packs there’s only a few basic maintenance items you must be aware of. For older packs such as the p4 pack I would still recommend bringing these packs down below 10% every 20-30 flight or after long periods of storage. When you go past 20% make sure you are not flying hard and only hovering at a low altitude. The key here is to drain the pack as slow and gently as possible. What this does is perform something like a soft reset (calibration) on the SOC counter. Now if you are constantly using packs and not abusing them, you more than likely do not have to worry about a calibration. But remember long period of storage might require this to get the battery back to calculating accurately. After long storage periods its always best practice to monitor the pack during the initial flight. I know I am anal but if a pack has sat more than 3 months, I fully charge and then hover for the entire flight down to 20%. During this flight I am constantly monitoring the packs performance via the battery window. If the pack is not well this will usually show signs, especially voltages and balance issues.

Newer packs such as the m2 and enterprise models should not require this and most issues we see are due to storage charge and temperatures. With that being said, there are times a good battery calibration can bring back unhealthy packs in these new generation smart batteries.
I know I have probably missed some stuff, but it is simple. Keep packs above 60F in cold weather, not push them hard, do not keep batteries fully charged for long periods of time and do not store while fully charged in cold conditions.
I understand for first responders, a lot of this is hard to do but you must develop a battery maintenance schedule. Batteries still need to be cycled. I would suggest at least twice a week down to 50% if kept at full levels.

One more thing, please know that warm weather works in a very similar way. You do not want packs starting off too warm. Try to keep packs below 90F prior to flight. Also, the same with storage, never store fully charged packs in extreme temperatures.
I have tried my best to not get too technical and put it laymen terms as best as I could. If you have further questions, please let me know!


No photo description available.
 
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To add to Ken's post from FB, for us in the USA who use Fahrenheit, -20 C = -4 F, 0 C = 32 F, and +45 C = 113 F.
 
personally i never wait for rth to kick in when the battery is low. it's a calculation with too many variables that i don't trust. unless the drone is right nearby, i'll bring it in at 25%. but i guess that only works if you start out at 100%.
I don't either and I usually don't use RTH because I like to practice locating myself and landing manually. Occasionally I get to feeling a little lazy and let the software handle it but that's more the exception than the rule and I prefer to land before it hits 20%. Not 100% of the time but most the time.
 
It would be nice if the chargers were capable of reducing the charge down to 50% rather than having to use the drone to do it. It's not always convenient or even possible in some weather to do fly the drone to kick the percentage down. Is there a way I don't know about?

Also, if the packs should not be fully charged for more than 48 hours, why do they wait till 6 days to do it on their own instead of say, 3 or 4. It would be nice if we could program to do that in the app.
 
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I would love a storage mode adapter... something as simple as a USB-C charging adapter that can charge a device and then deactivate once the pack was at optimal storage charge.... Lets go MAX... make it happen.
 
It would be nice if the chargers were capable of reducing the charge down to 50% rather than having to use the drone to do it. It's not always convenient or even possible in some weather to do fly the drone to kick the percentage down. Is there a way I don't know about?

Also, if the packs should not be fully charged for more than 48 hours, why do they wait till 6 days to do it on their own instead of say, 3 or 4. It would be nice if we could program to do that in the app.

I think it is to reduce the risk of the batteries catching fire. LiPos store massive amounts of capacity in a very small size, to reduce that much capacity quickly would generate a lot of heat and be very stressful on the discharge circuitry increasing the risk of a short or fire. The drone itself of course has a legitimate and safe load that can properly use all of that capacity and stay cool while doing so, but the discharge circuitry is probably tiny by comparison and they have to build it to the lowest common denominator/worst case scenario; meaning people who throw them in their bags with no ventilation and surrounded by flammable material.

Personally, I would rather have to buy batteries a little more often than having one burn my house down.

personally i never wait for rth to kick in when the battery is low. it's a calculation with too many variables that i don't trust. unless the drone is right nearby, i'll bring it in at 25%. but i guess that only works if you start out at 100%.

I never use RTH, don't think I have ever let a drone fully RTH and land, but I will admit at times I've turned off the low battery RTH when shooting a critical job where the drone is far away or where it is close and I absolutely need those few extra minutes. A few times I've landed with around 4% remaining, definitely not the norm, but if flying for a few more minutes will save me hours of work later then I will sometimes risk it.

Ken Booth's post above mentions an important point which is easy to overlook...after takeoff stop and hover for a minute to verify everything is working properly. Part of my takeoff sequence is to immediately go straight up and hover at 100' AGL. There is where I then set the camera parameters and figure out my next move. There is also where I've noticed issues such as compass calibrations, battery problems, etc. I will admit I don't do this every single time, especially after the camera is already set up from a previous flight, but I do always fly straight up to 100' AGL before doing anything else even if it is to descend later. That one simple trick has saved my drone many times.
 
Hi team:

So I did a short flight yesterday with my Nano plus (10month old). Taking off with a battery showing 61%. All is well until RTH is trigger when the battery is down to 24% after 5 minutes of flying. So I immediately started to fly back in a straight line. The battery was down to 21% when all of a sudden it dropped to 0% and my drone crashed (see screenshot attached). Luckily it crashed on a grass area but now the drone legs x 2 are partially broken. The flying condition was calm, temp is 28degree C. I pulled the log and there was no warning about the battery. The battery is used less than 25 times!

This incident completely destroyed my confidence in flying this drone....

My questions:

1) does anyone have this issues before?
2) will Autel repair the damage + replace the battery (assume it was faulty)?

Thanks guys

Oz
Yep, had the same 1 week ago. Drone is gone. Fell into swamp area. I sent all the info to Autel Support. Not really confident that I will get any reply.
 

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